View of the Poor Knights from the south-west, as visitors approach from Tutukaka. For many divers this is the point where adrenaline begins pumping. On left the northern island Tawhiti Rahi, in the middle the southern island Aorangi Island and on right Archway Island with Aorangaia Island behind it.

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Introduction The Poor Knights Islands are located in the northernmost part of New Zealand, called Northland. The map shows the coast north of Auckland, which lies about 90km south of Leigh. In Leigh is New Zealand's first marine reserve, that around Goat Island. Recently a small marine reserve has been created at the entrance to the Whangarei Harbour, and the next one further north is around the Poor Knights Islands. Taking a coastal road from Whangarei, one arrives in the picturesque and sheltered harbour of Tutukaka, where many yachts and charter boats are berthed. Dive charters take divers from Tutukaka in a north-easterly direction to the Poor Knights. Slightly further north of the Poor Knights, on the coast is another marine reserve, that around Mimiwhangata. This reserve is not fully protected, allowing recreational fishing, and is therefor called a marine park. Just west of Mimiwhangata is the coastal township of Oakura from where some charter boats operate, also taking divers to the Poor Knights. Further north, outside the map is the Bay of Islands, and further north still, the deep harbour of Whangaroa. The Poor Knights provide the best diving in New Zealand, because they are located far out in sea, near the edge of the continental shelf, surrounded by deep clear water exceeding 100m depth (300FT). Being the hard volcanic remnants of what was once a large volcano, the Poor Knights have steep cliffs and steep drop-offs underwater. The volcanic rock has many adventurous caves, archways and passages. The Poor Knights are easily reached from the nearby safe harbour of Tutukaka, where fast dive boats take visitors to the islands within an hour. The rohe (traditional grounds) of the Ngatiwai tribe extend from Cape Brett, just north of the map to Tawharanui, just south of the map and includes all islands in the sea, including Little Barrier I (east of Goat I), and parts of Great Barrier I (far east of Goat I).

Why are the Poor Knights so highly valued?

• it is very unique: the fish and divers agree, there is no place like it. Fishermen also agree, but are now banned.
• far away from mainland: located so far away, it enjoys de-facto protection. One needs a reasonable boat to get there.
• no damage from effluent: the islands are located far from shore, from effluents and poisons, but they are nonetheless deteriorating.
• deep water all around: located at the edge of the continental shelf, with deep rocks around it, it is not suitable for trawling.
• rich currents, clear, warm: the islands are located pretty much upstream in the clear ocean currents. Fish arrive from subtropical areas to the north.
• protected above water: the land is completely protected, all flora and fauna, and gaining access is very difficult.
• barrier shape gives shelter: the islands' north-south orientation make it a barrier island with a sheltered side. One can always find a spot to dive.
• caves, arches, drop-offs, shelter: the topology (form) of the rocky shore is capricious, with caves, arches, drop-offs and more.
• many habitat types, high diversity: shape, orientation and location created a large variety of habitat.
• easy to reach by boat: Tutukaka has a safe harbour for small craft like yachts, charter boats and launches.
• not easy to reach otherwise: there exists no connection by car or plane. One needs to suffer the discomfort of a one hour bumpy boat ride, which is not everyone's 'cup of tea'.

• unspoilt wilderness: on land the wilderness is recovering. In the sea it has never been seriously affected by fishing. Now that it has become a fully protected marine reserve, one hopes that the underwater wilderness becomes even better. (but there is a problem)
• a unique place: NZ has many outlying islands, but the Poor Knights is still the best. The Three Kings are probably even better, but they are so difficult to get to. White Island, south-east of Tauranga, is also an excellent dive spot, but is three times further away from an unsafe harbour, and is not safe to stay overnight. Mayor Island sits in a sea of shallow sand, but has wonderful gardens of seaweeds.
• a place to learn from: by visiting the Poor Knights, one gains an impression of what used to be found along the mainland, but which is now lost. The Poor Knights should teach us the resolve to turn the tide of degradation. What if we lose even this place? This large section about the Poor Knights aims to make people even more aware; to learn even more. The Poor Knights group is a good ambassador for conservation.
• good diving: excellent diving all around the two islands.
• eco-tourism: the islands were an excellent fishing destination, but now people come to just look and learn. Eco-tourism is all about valuing the natural environment, and in the process learning about what we've lost.

f992718: the adventure often begins while underway to the dive destination, as boats pass wild dolphins. There is always some interaction between people and dolphins, often making it possible to swim with the dolphins. Top photo: a pod of bottlenose dolphins (Tursiops truncatus). f200120: left photo: the charter boat has slowed down to allow bottlenose dolphins to ride its bow wave, while divers look on.

Since 1998 the Poor Knights have become a fully protected marine reserve, which means that one cannot take anything home or damage the environment. The Poor Knights have for a long time a totally protected terrestrial reserve on which nobody is allowed to land without a permit. Permits are given only if one can show that one's presence is of important benefit to the islands.

Because of this high standard of protection, it is hoped that the underwater environment will improve even beyond what it is today. Unfortunately, as you will read in the chapter on degradation, a new threat has appeared, for which marine protection cannot help.
 
 

This very large section about the Poor Knights islands was written to document this unique place such that visitors will be better prepared and New Zealanders able to learn about this magical place. On the Seafriends web site we have also documented other marine reserves, and the Poor Knights fill an important gap on the transect Leigh (Goat Island) - Poor Knights - Kermadecs - Niue, documenting marine environments from coastal green to cool-tropical deep blue water.

A common thread through the many chapters on the Seafriends web site (www.seafriends.org.nz) is the fostering of understanding of the weird marine environment. If we want to save the sea, we must understand how it works, and for this understanding we must also experience the sea from a diver's perspective - what it looks like, its adventures, its mysteries, its many habitats and species. In other words, we aim to bring the sea to the surface, for all to see and enjoy.

In the history of the islands, we have been able to consult many sources, which enabled us to piece a picture together of the Maori settlement and later European management.

The chapter on the ecology of the islands, begins with its ancient geological history and how this has resulted in the islands we know today. The chapter on ecology deals mainly with the islands' marine environment, because this is the place that interests us most. For the reader it provides the key to understanding what lives where and why. Separate chapters have been devoted to the mystery of Barren Arch, the mysteries of Rikoriko and the awesome Taravana Cave. Even those who are very familiar with the Poor Knights, may find these chapters astounding and challenging.

The most important chapters for divers describe the many dive locations in four parts, from the northernmost quarter to the southernmost. Most dive sites are illustrated with photographs above and under water. North, mid-north, mid-south, south, squires.

Separate chapters have been devoted to snorkelling and nightdiving with valuable tips and advice. Beginners may wish to learn the advanced techniques of snorkelling without fear.

One can never document all marine creatures found at the Poor Knights, so we have limited ourselves to the most common ones, still a very respectable number. The legendary schooling fish and awesome moray eels deserved a chapter of their own, as well as the socialising stingrays.

The many remaining organisms were organised in three chapters: the fishes, the cliff dwellers and the seaweeds. The chapter about reef fishes was not arranged in taxonomical order but according to where they are found. As far as the cliff dwellers go, we had to limit ourselves severely, and not with an apology either. The Poor Knights' sessile life is simply too varied, and remains therefore an inexhaustible source of enjoyment. Also the seaweeds have been left largely untouched for the same reason.

A sad but necessary chapter Going, going, gone is devoted to the marine degradation that is now encroaching on the Poor Knights. Long hushed up for commercial and political reasons, it has had disastrous consequences that are now clear to for anyone see. The sea is sick and marine reserves do nothing to prevent or mitigate the loss of both quality and quantity of life. Only by saving the land can we save the sea!
You may now be interested to read more about marine degradation affecting New Zealand's coastal seas. Begin with the samples of decay. Note that this is the ONLY place in the world where you can read about the principles of degradation, the plankton balance hypothesis and the Dark Decay Assay with which the six most important ecological laws on this planet were discovered (!!). Only reading is believing. (large chapters)

The many links to related chapters on this web site are all worth pursuing in your quest to begin to understand the sea. Visit the Seafriends home page, the recent additions , the big overview and the very extensive and complete sitemap that also shows what is still missing.

This large chapter about the Poor Knights did not happen overnight, but is the result of decades of preparation, study, photography and observation. I hope that it will not remain an effort just by myself, but that others may contribute with valuable knowledge, corrections and suggestions. In this manner these pages can remain alive and uptodate. -  Floor Anthoni.
 

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